fibrCashmere
Two numbers decide whether a cashmere sweater lasts a decade or pills into a rag by February: fibre length and ply.
Reviewed: 2026-10-05
Cashmere is the fine undercoat a goat grows for winter, usually collected during the spring moult. Each animal yields only a small quantity of usable fibre, and the amount varies by breed and region. That scarcity is one reason genuine cashmere carries a premium.
Fibre length and fineness are measurable quality clues. Longer fibres tend to stay anchored in the yarn, while shorter loose fibres can work out under friction and form pills. A high price alone tells you nothing about either measurement.
Ply is how many strands are twisted into the yarn. Two-ply is the sensible minimum for a sweater. Single-ply knits feel featherlight in the shop and go thin at the elbows within a season.
All cashmere pills at first. The loose short fibres have to come out. De-pill gently with a comb after the first few wears and the surface settles down for good; keep pulling at it and you'll thin the knit yourself.
Signs of quality
- Two-ply or more, stated on the page
- Fibre length or grade published
- Fully fashioned knitting rather than cut-and-sew panels
- A named mill, ideally in Scotland, Italy or Mongolia
What to watch for
- Cashmere blends where the percentage is buried in the care tab
- A crewneck under 100 euros — the maths doesn't work
- Very light single-ply knits sold as luxury
Care
Hand wash cool with wool detergent or use a wool cycle at 30°C, press the water out without wringing, and dry flat. Store it folded — hanging stretches the shoulders — and give it a rest day between wears so the fibres recover.
Sources and further reading
Certifications worth knowing
- SFA
- Sustainable Fibre Alliance: herding and animal-welfare standards at the source.
- OEKO-TEX
- Harmful-substance testing on the finished knit.
